Force Feeding vs Assist Feeding

[Zephyr]

Yep, I'd say it's very reliable for babies. I had an eastern baby who decided to quit eating (Never happened last year, odd huh?) So I injected egg white into him/her the other week. This week, he/she took two pieces of worms and a mouse leg from tweezers.

[GartersRock]

Cool Loren!

I still stand by what I said Kyle. But if it works for you! I don't see why not... I for one... Would see it as far to risky to force feed at 2 weeks. Would scare the heck out of me after having bad results with it. Lol! I also would say that 2 weeks is a little soon. I would wait at least 3 or even longer unless they are looking really bad. I have had ribbon babies not eat until the 3rd or 4th week when they become ravenous!

On another note!
When most people assist feed they slowly place the snake back in the cage and hold very still. Some VERY reluctant snakes may not even accept the slow movement to get them back in the cage and to get your hands back out! Most would resort to force feeding if this doesn't work. Well there is an option #3.

What I have found for esp nervous snakes to work very well, is to place the item in the mouth and then freeze. With the snake still in your hands making no movement. As soon as it is well on it's way down, THEN place the snake back in the cage. Had a lot of success with that with snakes that would not assist feed being placed back into the cage.

[Zephyr]

Well, with babies I can't really tell if they're on the road to failing (AKA death, lol) or if they're just being stubborn.
I have one of my 07' adults who didn't eat for a month in summer heat. Then she decided to eat again and gained a little weight and size. Now she's off feed again, but I'm not worried seeing as she's done this before. Dunno why.

[GartersRock]

Yeah. Guess you just have to go with your gut feeling. *shrugs*

Good luck with your 07' girl. I hate that. Arg!

[Loren]

What I have found for esp nervous snakes to work very well, is to place the item in the mouth and then freeze. With the snake still in your hands making no movement. As soon as it is well on it's way down, THEN place the snake back in the cage. Had a lot of success with that with snakes that would not assist feed being placed back into the cage.

Exactly what I do. You have to hold perfectly still- BUT, have you ever noticed that there is always a fly landing on your face right about that time, or a bad itch somewhere, or something like that?

[GartersRock]

You do! That's awesome! I have talked to so many people and everyone places them back into the cage! lol!
Go Loren!!

And yes. It's amazing how you notice how often you get little itches, bad itches, bothersome flies, or whatever when you are trying to hold perfectly still. LOL

[Zephyr]

Exactly what I do. You have to hold perfectly still- BUT, have you ever noticed that there is always a fly landing on your face right about that time, or a bad itch somewhere, or something like that?

Always.
It's never easy.
Or they'll be swallowing it, something else will move in the room, and they'll spit it out. lol

[ssssnakeluvr]

or one of your kids assisting you will walk up an ask what you are doing.......

[GartersRock]

My dogs are horribly guilty of this. Both the greyhound and the canaan dog will be perfectly still. Asleep on my bed. I forget they are there. Sit down to assist feed a snake. Wham! The dogs are so freaked out and worried about me being so still. They jump up and ask what's wrong. There goes the food item.

[aSnakeLovinBabe]

I have resorted to force feeding a few times, mainly for babies to get eating and for hunger-strike-snakes gone wrong to get back on their (no)feet!

I only ever lost one baby snake that was force fed... and no juveniles. I have only had to force one adult, and other than that one baby, my expierience was that it actually turned out for the better. and I always attempt to assist feed before resorting to force feeding. Maybe it's because I am very quick wih it and the faster you get it done and over with and quickly get the snake back into it's environment, it's not as likely to TOTALLY freak out at that point. There is always a point where the snake you are working with is upset, and another point where the snake is totally panic stricken and borderline heart attack material. The trick is to get it over with BEFORE they reach panic stricken "i am being killed" stage.