Mouse talk.

[Loren]

As far as odor- they just plain stink. There are tricks to reduce smell, but no matter what, they will stink. Best to raise them outside the home. Temps near room temp are best- anything too much higher or lower may effect reproductive success, and of coarse, extremes may kill them.
Another thing to keep in mind; if you let some females live together for awhile and then introduce a new male, they will likely kill him. Raise females and their male together from as young as possible.
I keep 3 females with 1 male, fulltime. I do not remove the pregnant females for birthing, and I have very little cannibalizing. If they do it once, let them live, if they do it twice- feed them to a snake.
High enough protein in the diet is very important to have good breeding and prevent cannibalization. At least 18% protein.
Although I am all for fresh blood in breeding anything else, the best success I have with feeder mice has come from inbreeding the heck out of them. Fresh blood always seems to end up in mommas eating babies or low fertility, although I'm sure you should add a little new blood eventually.
My 60 mouse colony started with 2 fm's and a male, inbred them from there. Trust me, they dont care if its their sister or aunt or whatever.
I prefer the regular white albino "lab type" mouse.
Just my experience.

[Loren]

Lori- if you are still waiting for babies- the females look like they have a golf ball or two in their belly before they give birth- huge! It always seems to take a long time for the first litter, because you check everyday(probably 2 or 3 times a day, if I know you).
I have had breeding groups that didnt produce, too, but not real often.
Make darn sure you do have males and females,too. I am really good at sexing them now, but it takes practice to do it when they are young. I have gotten "males" that were females, and vise versa, from petstores before as they mis-sex them sometimes too.
I like small, basic cages, so they have nothing else to do but, well... you know .
Nexty time you try to feed that kingsnake, rub a live pinky all over a frozen thawed, or feed a live directly followed by a frozen/thawed. See if she'll take it. Or, using a needle nose or hemostat, very gently shake the frozen/thawed even after she strikes at it, let her think she's killing it slowly. Make sure your frozen/thawed are at 95-100 degrees or so, not just thawed. I use warm water.

[Lori P]

Lori- if you are still waiting for babies- the females look like they have a golf ball or two in their belly before they give birth- huge! It always seems to take a long time for the first litter, because you check everyday(probably 2 or 3 times a day, if I know you).
I have had breeding groups that didnt produce, too, but not real often.
Make darn sure you do have males and females,too. I am really good at sexing them now, but it takes practice to do it when they are young. I have gotten "males" that were females, and vise versa, from petstores before as they mis-sex them sometimes too.
I like small, basic cages, so they have nothing else to do but, well... you know .
Nexty time you try to feed that kingsnake, rub a live pinky all over a frozen thawed, or feed a live directly followed by a frozen/thawed. See if she'll take it. Or, using a needle nose or hemostat, very gently shake the frozen/thawed even after she strikes at it, let her think she's killing it slowly. Make sure your frozen/thawed are at 95-100 degrees or so, not just thawed. I use warm water.

Thanks Loren!! I have been working very hard on only checking the mice once a day. :-) Trying not to disturb them too much. And yeah, I thought about the fact that they have toys, tunnels, a wheel, lots of chewies, boxes to play in, burrows under the bedding, etc to keep them busy... maybe *ahem* wasn't too much on their mind at the beginning... LOL!!!!

Ok, the kingsnake... I have been doing just what you said!! I warm up a pinkie to feel as warm as the live ones. I let the live ones crawl all over it for at least 30 minutes before I pile them all up together in her tank. As soon as she strikes a live one, I jiggle the f/t with a long pair of tongs. She comes back to nab another live, and I'm jiggling... and usually, she notices it but still grabs a live. Last week, I got her to strike the f/t!!!!! And then she dropped it, with a look of utter disgust! LOL

I'm going to keep trying tho. If I could post the f/t to follow a live, it may work, but right now I can't get quite close enough to make that happen; she is still a little skittish (but getting better).

I think she'll come around. I just need to keep at it. Thank you SO much for all your ideas!!!!! Keep them coming. :-)

[Loren]

Sounds like you are doing about all you can Lori. One other thing you could try would be to leave her overnight in a small ventilated deli cup or similar container with nothing but a f/t pinky, put her and it in there right before bedtime, and just leave the container in the snake cage in case she gets out, and to keep the cats away. put it in a decently warm spot, but not "on the heat" since she wont be able to escape the heat. Leave her overnight and see what happens. Just an idea.
Sometimes they are just plain stubborn.